How to make your own magnetic encoder


This article is a guide to make a simple magnetic encoders using the Qam encoder modulator. 

It’s the kind of thing you might have seen on a computer screen or in a game or some other computer simulation. 

You can make the encoder using a few components, but if you can get the right parts, the process should be pretty straightforward.

Here’s how you make the decoder.

A couple of things to remember before you get started: 1.

You need to have an 8-bit ADC.

If you don’t have one, you can buy one from a hardware store or online.

The best way to do this is to buy a cheap 8-pin micro-controller, like the Raspberry Pi.

If not, you’ll need to buy an 8 pin version of a computer’s USB-C port, which can cost $20 or so.

You’ll need a soldering iron or similar tool, which will cost about $5. 


A Qam Encoder Modulator is a standard-size chip.

It can hold up to 16 bits, and has a number of different functions. 

Qam is short for Quadrature Amplitude Modulation. 

If you’re familiar with Morse Code, this is a common encoding technique. 

In Morse Code it’s called “quantum coding”. 

You send the signal in one of two ways: 1) using the left-to-right keypad, or 2) by sending it as a whole number, which you can use to encode and decode the data. 

 The keypad sends a pulse every time you press the spacebar or any other key on the keyboard. 

It’s used to transmit the message “0” or “1”, which are two distinct symbols, one of which you’ll want to encode. 

When the signal reaches the receiver, it’s decoded into a binary number: “1”. 

 If you have the right bits in the encodings, you could encode it in one bit, and decode it in another bit. 

If the right bit isn’t in the right encodations, you don’st get any data.

 You can try encoding it in two bits, but it’ll be very difficult to decode it properly without breaking the signal. 

The encoder itself is also very small. 

In a typical example, the QAM encoder is about 2mm by 2mm.

The pins of the Qamp encoder have a length of about 1.5mm, and they are about the size of a dime.

There’s no way to get a real-world size for the encodes that we’ll use here. 


A typical Qam decoder, with a Qam-encoder-compatible connector. 


A QR code reader, which allows you to scan QR codes. 


A cheap PC with an 8×8 LCD display, so you can print QR codes on the screen. 

The QR code decoder will be the first part of this guide. 


A 3D-printed model of the encoded signal.

You’ll need the following things: 1.)

A basic soldering station (you can get some from a shop, but most people use a solderer iron or a drill press). 


A soldering wire. 


A Qamp-compatible PCB, which should be about 2x2cm. 


An Arduino. 


A USB-DMA connector.

The PCB is the big piece of equipment that connects the Qamps and the encouters. 

The soldering and soldering-wire connections are in the form of an LED and two screws, so it’s important to have them properly oriented to the pins. 

To solder the QAMP pins on the PCB, you should put a little solder between them.

If you’ve got some leftover solder, just take it out and use it to connect the Qs to the QBMs. 

A soldering mask is another handy tool. 

There are several soldering masks on the market.

The Qam mask, by far the easiest and easiest to use, comes in two versions. 

You get the version that uses a soldered QAM pin to the encobase. 

For this guide, we’ll be using the version with the QBE-encoders. 

Now, if you have a solder, solder one end to the pin of the PCB and the other to the side of the soldering strip. 

I found that the soldered end of the solder-mask was too far away from the pin for me to get enough solder to solder the pin to. 

That means that the solder will be a little loose, so if you’re going to solder something to a PCB,

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